Announcing a partnership initially to the end of 2016, EMMA-UK is now proudly supported by Hybrid Audio UK
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Posted by Richard S on 03 June 2015 - 08:33 PM
We are nearing the time when the Hybrid Audio UK demo car planning comes to an end and the creation process will be starting - so time to document what we're doing to create a showcase for Hybrid Audio UK sound quality outside of the competition scene.
This thread will get updated as we go, for now here's some info on the car and the planned equipment list :
2007 BMW E90 3 series "sedan"
335d M-Sport, 280bhp, 428 lb/ft from factory in Individual Aegean Blue.
Standard factory Nav/CD/radio, base hi-fi system with basically no redeeming audio qualities to it whatsoever
standard summer wheels
and on the winters
Retain OEM Nav/CD/DAB radio
Mobridge DA3 DSP unit to link MOST Audio system to aftermarket amplifier
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel class D amplifier
Front Stage speakers installed into factory positions:
Subwoofer - Clarus C12 free air firing through the rear armrest
The initial build will be active/passive using the Clarus crossovers on the mids/tweeters, with potential future plans to go fully active.
Lee from Platinum In Car will be building the car, and we'll be using Blue Sea Systems electrical products for the best possible system wiring and fusing design.
That's all for now, this will be updated as we go - the next instalment will be a gratuitous massive pile of kit ready for some action.
Posted by artsmkv_ on 12 August 2015 - 08:19 PM
Okay guys long time lurker first time posting... Just need some advise for my next build. Pros and Cons on speaker locations, crossover points, equipment being used, etc. Anything helps, just getting some ideas before i dive in! I plan on putting the l6 SE in the doors and putting the l3 SE and l1 Pro SE up in the A-pillars. And i know how much of a pain my GTI can be when it come to this stuff. But anyways any advice or suggestions would be great!
---CAR--- 2008 VW GTI
Focal KRX3 in the factory locations at the moment but they coming out soon!
RADIO - Alpine X009-U
SPEAKERS - L1 Pro SE, L3 SE AND L6 SE (No rear fill)
SUBWOOFER - JL Audio 8w7-AE (x2)
AMPLIFIER - Zapco Z150.6LX (Front stage) and Zapco Z-1KD (Subs)
PROCESSOR - Alpine PXA-H800 and RUX-C800
DAMPENING - Accumat Hyperflex (50% of the car is covered at the moment, almost done)
WIRES - Scosche Power/Ground and speaker wires, Custom RCA's (Canare cable, Rean RCA connectors)
Posted by KCDC on 12 August 2015 - 03:03 AM
Hello fellow forummates!
KC here. Proud owner of L3SEs with a set of L6SE carbons on the way.
Currently, I have my L3SE crossed at 250 HPF through my MS8, they are wonderful tweeterless and plan to stay that way.
My current CDT HD6 speakers were running fine, I believe crossed at 100, however I was never 100% happy with them after I installed the L3's. The blending was there but knew I could do better. I know it's not always swapping speakers that answers everything, but I found a deal on the L6se's that I couldn't pass up so here I am.
Anyone here running an MS8? Would you recommend specific settings for my front stage once the carbons show up? This DSP has it's own way of handling things, and some shortcomings that require workarounds, mainly with how it handles the front door speakers. I mention this in case anyone has found a magic setup that would save me time. I love the MS8 since it does a lot of the work I don't know how to do... I hope to learn more in the world of tuning so that one day I can graduate to a PS8..
This is in a 2015 WRX STi
Pioneer 8100NEX (Android Auto!)
Cerwin Vega B1 and B4 class D amps, tiny but powerful and clean. May move up to an Arc XDi 1200
JBL MS8 (only powering the rear fills)
CDT HD6EX rear fills
Cerwin Vega VPRO 104D sub. May move up to a Clarus 10
HAT speakers are a new-found love for me. I've always been into car audio since I could drive but only recently got back into it, looking for SQ over SPL.
Think NPR, lots of rock, hip hop and electronic, so a broad spectrum when it comes to what I want out of my sound.
I did try searching MS8 with legatia in mind, but never really came up with what I was looking for specifically. So either I fail at proper search techniques or no one talks about it.
If I end up going lone ranger on this one, I will of course share my settings and contribute what I've learned.
Posted by zimboflyman on 02 August 2015 - 07:41 PM
I'm new to this car audio lark, this is my first build.
After some research and some spontaneity, looks like I've ended up with some second hand Legatia L6 mids, L1v2 tweetsand a (350W?) 10'' Sub - phase linear Aliante.
I'm lookin at the following amps to run a 2 way plus sub system in my Van (T5) and just wondering what the opinions are.
not so interested in mad volume as I get tinnitus (so prob shouldn't even be building sound systems ) - just some goooood quality vibes!
Audison Lrx 5.1K (5ch - 2x60w, 2x170 + 1x750 )or something like a diamond Audio D7056 (6ch x 50w)
gennesis stereo 60 for tweeters plus one of the following...
Masconi AS100.4 - bridge 2 channels for the sub enough? and run the other 2 channels for mids
Genesis stereo 5ch - 4 ch bridged for mids plus sub?
DLS A7 big 5 - 4 ch bridged for mids and sub?
Zapco 300X for mids ? with
any better option?
I guess I'm really after the warmest sounding setup for tunes like pink floyd, mike oldfield, bit of rock, bit of trance....
I know it's alot down to install and tuning - but what option (or any other) might pair up well with these speakers
Much appreciate your input.
Posted by mkars111 on 21 April 2015 - 02:08 AM
Posted by Earhead on 25 September 2014 - 07:32 PM
If you were starting over what radio and processor would you use? I am only interested in products that are currently in production.
Posted by Jani on 31 August 2015 - 03:36 PM
Can you guys give me some thoughts about a "as simple as possible" solution for this?
My first thought was just a quality cap for a 6db/oct@14k or something like that, and let the L3 roll off by itself. Minimal phase-issues, and wouldn't stress L1pro too much... maybe?
The elements are installed right next to eachother, aimed (adjustable baffle) at the driver.
HP for L3 comes from DSP.
Thanks in advance for your opinions on this subject,
Posted by addieboy on 31 August 2015 - 11:52 AM
Hi. My first post here and been reading tons of posts about speaker placement, crossovers, etc. I already have an JBL MS8 and a 5 channel amp (125 watts x 4 + subwoofer amp). I intend to run a full active setup using the following:
ch1+2 - HAT L1v2 powered by the JBL ms8 amplifier (20watts)
ch3+4 - HAT L3v2 with 125w amp
ch5+6 - HAT L6V2 with 125w amp
ch7+8 - SUB (Most probably an ultimo sc10)
L6 and L3 - lower front door (previously occupied by the stock 6x9)
L1 - sail panel
Ive been looking at various posts about ITD, IID and HRTF but still cannot find a definite answer so I need some suggestions on the starting crossover points:
1. Would the following be acceptable starting points?
- sub to midbass: 80Hz
- midbass to midrange: 640Hz (3 octaves)
- midrange to tweeter: 4800 Hz (again: 3 octave rule)
2. Would 20watts be acceptable for the HAT L1 running only at 4800 Hz up?
Any inputs and suggestions will be much appreciated. Thanks
Posted by Earhead on 16 July 2015 - 01:50 PM
Anyone using this radio? If so, I would like to converse with you. I am having an output issue.
Posted by tjframe on 12 July 2015 - 03:10 PM
There are so many conflicting opinions online I'd prefer to get solid answers from reputable people.
So.. I'm currently running Imagine midbass 6.5" woofers in sealed front doors (and soon to be back doors was well) along with Legatia 3.7"s in the dash (and soon I'll be adding Alpine DLX-F30T tweeter pods as well).
Currently everything is running off an Audison Prima bit 8.9 dsp/amp which gives out a clean 35Wx8. The front 6.5's are running off of 70 watts and the 3.7's are using 35 watts. The 10" subwoofer is getting 300watts RMS, and will be upgraded soon to 2 X10" with 1200 watts
My problem is that I have very little volume headroom up front, and I really have to crank the volume dial all the way up on the head unit to get that "feel it in your bones" umph. The system feels like it's straining to meet the demands I'm placing on it, so I will be replacing the Prima 8.9 (which has no upgrading capabilities) with a dedicated DSP + mulitple amp solution.
So my question is, if 35 watts is not thrilling me... how high can I go without frying anything? If I'm reading the manual correctly, the 6.5 woofer has a recommended RMS of 60 watts and a pMax of 120, and the 3.7 midrange has a pMAX of 125 watts (I'm guessing the rms would be in the low 60s ??)
Sorry if I'm being dense.. but does this literally mean that delivering an amp rated at 150 watts RMS to the 3.7s or the 6.5s would be at risk of frying them? Couldn't the speakers, especially the largers 6.5"s, take a lot more as long as it's coming from a decent amp and crossed over correctly? I seem to remember a thread on the HATs on one of the forums where someone had a crazy amount of power to each channel and everything was fine for him since the gains were set low, and the system became too loud to tolerate before really pushing the phsycial limits of the speakers.
I know that I want a surplus of power on tap so that the amps are not unduly stressed, but melting $300 drivers is not what I want either. Would amps delivering 150 watts RMS to the 6.5" and 150 to the 3.7 be reasonable? What about 300 to the 6.5? Is this ultimately an issue of "More power is better" but with the caveat that as you add more power you have to drop the channel outputs more and more so as not to blow the speaker?
Posted by Richard S on 02 July 2015 - 06:19 PM
more news to follow when we have it, we're working on a number of things around the event with EMMA UK to give all competitors a great finals weekend !
Posted by xman111 on 17 June 2015 - 08:20 PM
Posted by tjframe on 06 June 2015 - 12:02 AM
It's been many years since I delved into the aftermarket car audio world so I'm a bit rusty. Pardon any noobness on my part.
I have a pair of Imagine I61-2V2 6.5" for the doors and L3v2s for the dash. I decided against running the tweeters from the Imagines on the dash, even though I know a lot of folks do it.
The midbass drivers alone cover 60 Hz - 6 kHz while the 3.5's span 113 Hz – 18k Hz, which is a huge amount of overlap. I can't hear anything above 15-6khz at my age so I'm thinking this will be adequate for my needs.
How do I determine the best crossover points? How much overlap is a good thing? Are there general rules of thumb in this situation or do I have to sit with the technican and just listen to what sounds good?
FYI rest of the system will have an 8 channel amp/signal processor from Audison, a dedicated Rockford Fosgate sub amp, and a Fosgate 10" box taking up space in my trunk.
Posted by Chris LaCombe on 03 June 2014 - 12:40 PM
Posted by Mmay on 13 May 2014 - 03:49 AM
Hi guys, I am looking to jump into a higher quality of sound over my past build. I have read a lot about HAT and think it is the right choice for me. I have been an installer for 12 years but haven't had the pleasure of installing many audiophile products due to the nature of big box stores. I don't have any local dealers which makes it hard for me to check out your products also. My last build was in a 2003 Subaru, I was using Kappa 6.5" components in the front and kappa 6.5" 3 ways in the back along with a Kappa Perfect 10DVC. MTX amps, can you tell where I worked, lol! In general I was happy with the setup, I felt like I always wanted more midbass though. I dislike "tinny" tweeters. I listen to mostly metal, lots of double bass, but really I could have just about any kind of music playing in my car depending on who is with me.
My new car is 2014 Subaru Legacy. I already have a Kicker KX800.5 (Hard to turn down for $184 new. I will most likely be using a new Pioneer NEX5000 just so I can integrate my factory back up cam, usb and aux. Seems like the best internals of the DDIN's I could find. I have nice wiring, plan on sound deadening, doing all the little tricks to pull out the best sound. My biggest issue is deciding on what line of speakers to choose. I believe in the back doors I am set on Imagines, being that I can run them in a coaxial setup. For the front I cannot decide between unity's or clarus. I am looking to see what the big improvement is. I see the technical differences but what I really want to know is whether the mid-bass increase is worth the money, I do like mid-bass. I plan on just using the included x-overs for now (and probably permanently.) Does one sound better if the tweeter is mounted off axis? Factory location is in the corners of the dash facing up into the window. Woofers will be in the factory door locations. Otherwise is sounds like the tweeter is the same? and the x-over is improved as well? I plan on using a Clarus 10" in the back, sealed box. ( Might consider 2 imagine 8"s, would have to check the power ratings real quick) I don't like anything bigger, tends to get a little sloppy with the double bass and that will just make me want to turn it off.
Also, I read somewhere that the Imagines tend to work a little better as a coaxial set versus a component set? Could anyone clarify that.
Any advice would be helpful!
Posted by Ricekake on 01 October 2015 - 10:54 AM
Posted by RoBro on 30 September 2015 - 06:12 PM
Can someone please explain this to me? Better yet, will the single 12" produce more volume than the four 8's?
Posted by DaveJB on 10 July 2015 - 08:36 PM
Hey guys, looking forward to my new system. I did search the forum a couple different ways but couldn't find an answer. Car is a 1999 BMW Z3 Coupe. So, I am planning on running these speakers off a Pioneer DEH-80PRS and want to use the DTA (digital time alignment) and Auto-EQ in 3 way network mode. I'm not sure if I'll run these in coax in the kick panels or install the tweeter in the door mount location (OEM "mid" and tweeter already there). I want to biamp the mids and tweets using an Alpine MRV-F407 (60 watts x 4) and then of course I'll be running a sub in the back. No rear fill. FWIW, I installed my first SQ system back in about 1991 so have been doing this on and off for a long time. My goal is fidelity, soundstage, imaging etc. Of course I'd like to be able to crank it up but that won't be an issue here.
I guess my questions are:
1. I have no problem with HAT using a first order X-over and my thought is that since they designed the speaker it would sound best to leave it. If I ran it through that passive X-over can I still biamp it?
2. Considering I have this head unit, should I instead bypass the capacitor and use the head unit's X-over? As in, will it sound better and what should the X-over points be?
3. I'd love to build or use some kick panel modification to get these mids more on axis but I can't really find anything premade. I was thinking I might try these at some point. Of course I'd add some polyfill and am using Dynamat in the car.
That's it for now, thanks.
Posted by Richard S on 08 April 2015 - 05:59 PM
A quick update on Hybrid Distribution UK - things are going well, with plenty of interest and some surprises in terms of what's proving to be popular.
We're really pleased to see the Imagine and Legatia ranges doing well - for example the Imagine I61-2v2 2-way components and Legatia L3v2 midrange seem to be particular favourites of UK customers.
Over our first 4 months of trading we've also been on the look-out for a complimentary product range that fits in with the principles of Hybrid Audio as a brand - and today we've secured an agreement to supply Blue Sea systems products to customers in the UK.
We've been road-testing a number of these products in our Team Hybrids UK sound quality car - the engineering, production quality and overall level of electrical reliability is excellent ! To the extent that we've now replaced the OEM under-bonnet VW fusing with one of the SafetyHub products and this is now expected to outlast the life of the vehicle.
We would only recommend what we feel are really high quality accessories alongside the Hybrid Audio speaker range - and the Blue Sea Systems offering is by far the highest quality set of products that we've found for the electrical foundation of a build for SQ and SPL - far more so than any of the so-called "high end car audio" offerings from well-known established brands. If anything, due to price pressures in Europe for all types of in-car brands, we're seeing the quality of electrical accessories reducing so we wanted to offer an alternative.
Here's an example of a custom battery-fused distribution installation using some of the Blue Sea products - the design and installation of this wiring scheme, including replacement of a more complex OEM Volkswagen fusing panel was undertaken by Lee at Platinum In Car.
Further information can be found at http://www.hybrid-au...ea-systems.html - more updates to follow as we continue to build the UK business.
Owner, Hybrid Distribution UK
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